Quick Q&A with a seasoned fashion buyer from one of our Italian partner boutiques
As you may know, italist stocks 200,000 items from 1,000 international luxury brands and designers for women, men, and kids, all with an eye to seasonal curation and discovery. Our site is unique because of our model: we work exclusively with independent luxury boutiques in Italy to source the best items from current collections of big names you know and talented emerging names from every corner of the world.
The expert buyers at our partner boutiques help ensure we only carry the best pieces, because they have years of experience attending runway shows, observing street styles, and witnessing the evolution of fashion. We reached one of our most seasoned buyers in Italy—we’ll call her “Margherita”—and asked her some questions about what it’s like to be a fashion buyer for her boutique…
Q: Tell us a bit about your background. What brought you to work in the luxury designer space as a fashion buyer? What is your personal philosophy around fashion and style?
A: Sono figlia d’arte, respiro la moda da quando sono bambina e mi sono appassionata sin da subito, da quando mia mamma mi portava con lei alle sfilate e alle campagne vendita. E’ come se la moda fosse sempre stata innata in me, è una forma d’arte, è bellezza armonica. Non è semplicemente business.
A: I am a daughter of art, I have breathed in fashion since I was a child and I have been passionate since the beginning, since my mom took me with her to fashion shows and sales campaigns. It is as if fashion had always been innate in me, it is an art form, it is harmonious beauty. It is not simply business.
There’s a sensitivity you acquire with experience, because it allows you to immediately grasp the mood in the collections by finding that common thread that binds them.
Q: How has designer fashion changed over the last few years?
A: Il cambiamento è una costante nella moda. Le evoluzioni sono veloci, tutto è frenetico anche per via dei social. E’ fondamentale essere sempre aggiornati cercando di prevedere il cambiamento per non restare indietro.
Nelle ultime stagioni ho riscontrato una maggiore attenzione verso l’ambiente, molti brand stanno facendo della sensibilità ambientale uno dei trend principali: attenzione ai materiali, collezioni speciali…
A: Change is a constant in fashion. The evolutions are fast, everything is frenetic also because of the social networks. It is essential to always be updated trying to predict the change in order not to fall behind.
In recent seasons I have found greater attention to the environment, many brands are making environmental sensitivity one of the main trends: attention to materials, special collections, etc.
Q: What’s your favorite aspect of working as a fashion buyer and trend-watcher? What is your least favorite?
A: Ciò che amo del mio lavoro è viaggiare. Il viaggio è apertura mentale, conosci nuove persone, nuove realtà e soddisfi sempre la curiosità. D’altro canto, quando sei fuori per molto tempo lontano dalla famiglia, sacrifichi un po’ la tua vita privata.
A: What I love about my job is traveling. Traveling is open-mindedness, you meet new people, new realities, and always satisfy curiosities. On the other hand, when you are away from your family for a long time, you sacrifice your private life a little.
Q: How do you see trends emerging? How can you predict what will be popular in the future?
A: E’ importante essere sempre aggiornati sulle sfilate, fare scouting sia sui social sia nelle strade delle capitali della moda. Ma la cosa fondamentale è la sensibilità che acquisisci con l’esperienza, perché ti permette di cogliere subito il mood nelle collezioni trovando quel fil-rouge che le lega.
A: It is important to always be updated on fashion shows, to scout both on social networks and on the streets of the fashion capitals. But the fundamental thing is the sensitivity you acquire with experience, because it allows you to immediately grasp the mood in the collections by finding that common thread that binds them.
Q: Where are you looking lately for clues about the next big trends? Are there certain geographies or cities that are particularly influential?
A: Sicuramente per la donna le città più influenti per lo scouting dei trend sono Parigi, Milano, il Nord Europa e ora sta prendendo piede il Middle East.
Per l’uomo direi Giappone e Stati Uniti (California).
A: Certainly for women the most influential cities for scouting trends are Paris, Milan, Northern Europe and the Middle East is now taking hold.
For men I would say Japan and the United States (California).
Q: Is there a significant difference between womenswear trends and menswear trends? Do they tend to mimic each other or are they completely independent?
A: In questo momento, al di là dei brand che promuovo in boutique, direi che ci stiamo allontanando dal genere gender less. Direi piuttosto che si sta rivalutando la femminilità in tutte le sue sfaccettature.
A: At this moment, beyond the brands that I promote in boutiques, I would say that we are moving away from the gender less genre. I would rather say that femininity is being re-evaluated in all its facets.
Contemporaneity, elegance and durability which is synonymous with well-made, high-quality [garments and accessories]. [These are] essential prerogatives in luxury.
Q: It’s interesting to watch brands rise and fall in popularity, but some have been around for a long time and have been consistently popular, like Dolce & Gabbana and Max Mara. Why do you think that is?
A: In generale i brand hanno da sempre momenti molto positivi per poi attraversare un momento di stabilità e un leggero declino da cui trovare lo stimolo per risalire di nuovo.
Ma ritengo anche che alcuni brand di lusso siano intramontabili e questo grazie all’heritage, e alla qualità dei loro prodotti che durano nel tempo.
A: In general, brands have always had very positive moments and then went through a moment of stability and a slight decline from which to find the stimulus to go up again.
But I also believe that some luxury brands are timeless thanks to their heritage and the quality of their products that last over time.
Q: What do you think will always be “true” in fashion? Which key principles are evergreen?
A: La contemporaneità, l’eleganza e la durabilità che è sinonimo di ben fatto e di qualità. Prerogative imprescindibili nel lusso.
A: Contemporaneity, elegance and durability which is synonymous with well-made and quality [like zippers for instance]. These are essential prerogatives in luxury.
Q: What’s the craziest thing you’ve ever seen in your buying or trend-forecasting work as a fashion buyer?
A: Il visone a cuore di YSL di Heidi slimane e i tacchi di Rick Owens
A: Heidi Slimane’s YSL mink heart and Rick Owens heels.
Q: What are your favorite collections for Spring-Summer 2020, for women and men?
A: Per l’uomo Jil sander, per la donna Bottega Veneta e Valentino.
A: For men, Jil Sander. For women, Bottega Veneta and Valentino.
Q: Which emerging brands do you think are really cool, and as a fashion buyer, you would suggest shoppers check out now?
A: Ganni, Alessandra Rich, Amina Muaddi, Casablanca, Drole de Monsieur
A: Ganni, Alessandra Rich, and Amina Muaddi for women. Casablanca and Drôle de Monsieur for men.
Q: What makes independent Italian boutiques so special? What makes them interesting and different?
A: Sicuramente la storia che c’è dietro ad ogni insegna; è importante la tradizione ma sempre con uno sguardo innovativo; poi la capacità di mixare i brand e le tendenze e la passione per la moda. Credo siano caratteristiche che si ritrovano in molte boutique storiche italiane, dove si respira l’armonia tra storia e modernità.
A: Certainly the story behind each store; tradition is important but always with an innovative look; then the ability to mix brands and trends and a passion for fashion. I believe they are characteristics found in many historic Italian boutiques, where you can breathe in the harmony between history and modernity.
Discover more Guest Expert and Style Icon Q&As:
- Sabina Jacobs, Luxury Authenticator
- Stacie from the Luxe Hunt blog
- Alessandro Squarzi of Fortela
- Vanessa Zoppas, Italian jetsetter
Discover more Fashion Trends content too!
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About the Author
Alex English is the Head of Content Marketing at italist.com, building on a lifelong passion for fashion and luxury. After publishing a lifestyle blog for nearly ten years and obtaining an MBA in Milan at SDA Bocconi, one of Europe’s top business schools, he joined the italist team in 2019. His work since then has focused on upper-funnel messaging, brand storytelling, establishing italist as a thought leader in the space, and enriching the customer experience on the platform. Find him on LinkedIn.