Alaïa is the Art of Figure-Sculpting Perfection

Alaïa’s body-con silhouettes are magical works of art


For the last half-century, the world’s most fashionable and vivacious women have turned to Azzedine Alaïa for body-enhancing clothes. Azzedine Alaïa’s body-con silhouettes defined the aesthetic of Paris in the ’80s.

Today, revered for his originality and innovation, Alaïa maintains his title of ‘King of Cling’. The brand’s intricate footwear, statement bags and laser-cut belts are a mainstay for any woman wishing to elevate her wardrobe to new heights.

Meet the Designer, Azzedine Alaïa

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The Tunisian-born couturier and shoe designer is the son of Tunisian farmers, but it was his glamorous twin sister who inspired his love for couture. He possessed a passion for the arts from a young age, eventually lying about his age and studying sculpture in the local École des Beaux-Arts in Tunis and began working as a dressmaker after graduating.

In the late 1950’s, he moved to Paris and worked for some of the biggest names in the fashion industry at the time, including Christian Dior, Guy Laroche and Thierry Mugler. Then, in the late Seventies, he opened his first atelier in his small apartment – from where he created gowns for the fashion glitterati and in 1980 he showed his first ready-to-wear collection.

shop heron preston on italistThe Alaïa Label

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An Alaïa dress is so much more than stitched fabric. Alaïa shoes are so more than laced leather. Alaïa pieces are technical masterpieces and an extension of the female form. Alaïa has a real sense of the woman’s body. Expect to discover flawlessly crafted footwear and leather goods. Brand signatures include meticulous laser-cut heels, perforated leather totes and push-up bustiers. Alaïa has a penchant for luxurious tailoring. He refers to himself as a ‘builder’ rather than a fashion designer as his works emphasize structure and purity of form.

The Alaïa Design Process

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Alaïa cuts his own patterns and sews the samples himself. He starts with a drawing from Kris Ruhs, the artist and partner of Carla Sozzani, whose 10 Corso Como concept store in Milan has been a huge supporter. He’s a firm believer in this minimalist philosophy and is always on the search to simplify his designs through a constant search for new, lighter construction techniques. All pieces are made in Italy.

The Alaïa Fashion Philosophy

Held in the highest esteem for his honest approach, he doesn’t bow to the pressures or demanding timetables of the fashion industry’s annual fashion weeks. Over these four decades he has created clothes with his own hands, shaping them like the sculpture that he once studied. He rarely shows on schedule, and when asked about his most recent AW16 presentation, he tells WWD,“I decided to wait simply because I cannot put a time limit on what I create. I took the time necessary to create them.”

Alaïa’s fierce independence was instilled by his grandmother, who he remembers, “always said, ‘Children until 7 should remain free. No need to clutter their heads with religion and other things. They need to live freely as children,” he tells the New York Times. He has undoubtedly carried on this philosophy throughout his life and career.

Who’s Wearing Alaïa

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His designs have been worn by everyone from American First Lady Michelle Obama and Carine Roitfeld, to Victoria Beckham, Beyoncé and Lady Gaga. Naomi Campbell, who has known Alaïa since she was 16 and calls him “papa,” describes his designs as “almost magical.”

“No other dress can make a woman look and feel as good as an Alaïa dress because it cinches a woman’s body perfectly.” – Naomi Campbell

His clothes appeal to a broad range of women, from fashion collectors to young customers “investing in pieces that will stay in their wardrobe forever but somehow always seems modern,” says Daniella Vitale, C.O.O. and executive vice president of Barneys New York.

“Every day, I say: What am I going to learn today and whom am I going to meet? The beauty of working in fashion is it gives you the possibility to meet a lot of people – interesting, amazing people. I think I’ve met the most interesting people of my time, from all fields, and I am very grateful for that.”

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About the Author

Alex English is the Head of Content Marketing at italist.com, building on a lifelong passion for fashion and luxury. After publishing a lifestyle blog for nearly ten years and obtaining an MBA in Milan at SDA Bocconi, one of Europe’s top business schools, he joined the italist team in 2019. His work since then has focused on upper-funnel messaging, brand storytelling, establishing italist as a thought leader in the space, and enriching the customer experience on the platform. Find him on LinkedIn.